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Again continue to flare out the seam by extending the mudded area such that about 6 inches resides on each side of the now invisible tape.Measuring and Ordering DrywallPrior to actually hanging the drywall, the material first needs to be ordered and delivered.After the seams have all been completed, apply a final coat of mud over the screw/nail dimples. You can rent Drywall Lifts at hardware or home improvement stores. Repeat the same process, however with the outside corners just apply a liberal coat of joint compound to the valley that is formed by the corner bead. It is best to fasten the screws/nails to the edges of the drywall first and then fill in the field afterwards. Continue this for all of the seams. Using the wider taping knife apply a generous amount of joint compound over the taped seams as you want to build up the area over the tape.g.For the outside corners, using the broad taping knife apply a generous amount of joint compound and flare out the material such that it extends out 6 inches or so from the corner. This will create stronger/cleaner looking walls and save significant time. Patience is the best advice and note that additional coats will be applied later to smooth out any imperfections.
Lightly sand all of the taped areas, however concentrate sanding on the outer edges of the mudded areas such that all seams and ridges are eliminated and blend into the main surface areas. 12 inches. Taking large strokes smooth the joint compound over the tape applying more pressure to the side of the taping knife further away from the tape.Prior to applying the skim coat it is best to take your wide taping blade and lightly pass over the mudded surfaces. Apply a generous amount of joint compound and then run the Corner knife down the corner starting from the top. Again the rows should be staggered. Again, apply more pressure to the blade side that is further away from the corner so that you leave more mud nearer the outside corner. Also, make sure metal protection plates have been installed to studding where sheetrock screws or nails could inadvertently penetrate plumbing pipes or electrical wire. This will help to leave more mud over the tape. Gloves are also recommended to protect against sharp blades. Use the Drywall lift or Jacks to hold the sheets in place while screwing or nailing them to the ceiling. Note: the tape will still be visible. Make sure to completely clean off the taping knife, the mud easel and any other containers or instruments that have mud on them prior to finishing up for the day. It is this coat that should hide the tape. This valley typically represents the first 3 or 4 inches from the edge of the corner. Take long, even strokes. The Jacks (or Ts) should be of a length such that they are just an inch or two taller than the height of the ceiling and have a cross beam that is approximately 3' in width. Ensure that nailers (e. Usually there are a couple of 45o angle braces connecting the crossbar to the main stem of the Jack.Once the second coat has been applied let it sit overnight or until it is dry, prior to starting the final application of Joint compound.g. If your budget does not allow for this cost, Jacks (or Ts) can be made out of 2"x 4"s. I would suggest 1-2 containers per 500 square feet of drywall. Remember this is a skim coat so little mud is required. However, it is usually best done with two or more people as it requires significant lifting of heavy material. Fiberglass tape is quite inexpensive so I would suggest picking up 2 to 3 roles for most Do-it-Yourself drywall projects. The Gypsum in drywall can be irritating to the eyes, lungs and sinuses so wear safety goggles and masks to avoid breathing in the material. The purpose of this coat is to effectively fill in any lines or recessed areas. Apply a skim coat of joint compound over the surface of a seam using a 6" wide taping knife. Calculate the total square feet and divide by 32. Additional coats will eventually hide it.For the corners use the broad taping knife and add just enough mud such that you can flare out the mudded surface area to about 8-12 inches, taking care to filling in any lines or dimples.Drywall screws or ringed nails will also be required.For purposes of efficiency and strength it is best to apply the large sheets of drywall over the doors and window openings and cut out the excess later. To determine how much material to order, measure all of the surface area, starting with the ceilings and then the walls.
Taping and MuddingAgain start with the ceiling. Drywall does come in larger sheets, such as 4'x12', however for a Do-it-Yourself homeowner these larger sheets can become unwieldy and maybe even impossible to bring into the existing home. Drywall should be applied from the top down, with the sheets hung perpendicular to the floor joists or studs. This will reduce sanding later.The inside corners are usually the most tricky and require practice. Also, strips of corner bead will be required. Here you are simply applying a final skim coat to the already mudded areas.Corner bead should be nailed every 6-8 inches and penetrate the framing. Screws or nails should be applied every 8 to 12 inches on each stud. Frequently sheets of plastic are used for creating the vapor barrier.Once the seams are done, using the 6" wide taping knife, apply mud to all of the screw/nail dimples. The plastic is simply stapled to the framing, covering the insulation.Drywall ToolsPrior to starting drywall installation, you need to obtain the proper tools. If the seam is wide, apply a liberal amount of joint compound to fill it.Note: When applying the mud over the tape and screw/nail dimples, make sure all excess material and uneven patches are smoothed down with the blade. Shower/Bathtub areas, Concrete board should be used. Joint Compound typically comes ready-mixed in 5 gallon containers.If mudding and taping are to be performed then Taping knifes, a Corner knife, sand paper, a pole sander and a Mud easel or pan will be necessary.Installing DrywallStart with the ceiling as this will allow the sheets on the walls to help hold the sheets on the ceiling. When complete, the mud should cover an area that extends beyond the width of the tape by 2 to 3 inches. Corners involve a little artistry so again take your time.Applying the Final Coat of MudAfter the first coat has thoroughly dried, it is now time to apply the final coat of mud. Make sure the seam is centered under the tape. Make sure to completely clean off the taping knife, the mud easel and any other containers or instruments that have mud on them prior to finishing up for the day.Rows of drywall should be applied in a staggered pattern. I find it best to use a pole sander with an open screened sand paper material specifically designed for sanding sheetrock/drywall mud. The screws or nails should be installed such that they are slightly recessed and create a small dimple without breaking the paper. The concrete board is also referred to as Wonderboard or Durock. For the taping knifes you will need a 6" wide blade and a 12" wide blade. I would also recommend adding another 5-10% to this figure to account for inefficiencies. Typically I use 1.For bathroom areas where ceramic tile is to be applied, e.For the inside corners a Corner knife may come in handy.
It is this coat that requires the most artistry and the least amount of joint compound. Secondly, a vapor barrier should be applied over the insulation on the outside walls if un-faced insulation was installed.Applying the Second Coat of MudAfter the first coat has thoroughly dried, it is now time to apply the second coat of mud.After the ceiling has been completed it its time to move on to the walls. Screws are typically stronger and can be placed further apart, e.Again start with the ceiling seams and apply a small amount of joint compound using the broad taping knife.Once sanding is complete, vacuum up the dust and you are ready for priming and painting the walls and texturing the ceilings.Once the first coat has been applied let it sit overnight or until it is dry, prior to starting the second application of Joint compound. A skim coat is all that is initially required.Installing Corner beadOnce the drywall has been installed, corner bead should be applied to all outside edges.For bathrooms or other moist areas Greenboard should probably be used as this material is moisture resistance.SafetyDrywall installation is dirty, heavy work.g.Joint Compound and Fiberglass tape will also be required for Taping and Mudding. With this second coat, flare out the mud over the dimples such that the diameter of the mudded area is about 6-8 inches in diameter.Once the final coat has been applied let it rest overnight or until it is dry,SandingSanding is a very dusty and dirty mess so please uses goggles and a mask. The result should give you the number of 4'x 8' sheets of drywall required for the job. A Drywall Lift really comes in handy when hanging sheetrock/drywall on the ceilings. While the Joint compound is still wet, apply the fiberglass tape over the skim coat of Joint Compound. Once the tape has been installed, apply additional Joint Compound over the tape, again using the 6" wide taping knife. Mudding and Taping can also be performed by the homeowner, however these tasks require some practice and artistry.After the seams have all been completed, apply a second coat of mud over the screw/nail dimples. With this second coat, flare out the mud over the dimples such that the diameter of the mudded area is about 3-4 inches in diameter.Again, start with the ceiling.25" length screws or nails. This will remove any bumps or ridges.In addition to the Lift or Jacks, a drywall screw gun, hammer, T-square, carpenters knife, drywall saw and a keyhole saw are required. 2" x 4"s) are existent at each corner and header, that the framing is straight, and that the framed walls create smooth planes. This will create an interlocked pattern that creates a tighter and stronger ceiling/wall. The bottom piece China Customized Sintered Powder Metal Pulleys Company should sit about ½ inches from the sub-floor. The keyhole saw is used for cutting around electrical boxes.
Lightly sand all of the taped areas, however concentrate sanding on the outer edges of the mudded areas such that all seams and ridges are eliminated and blend into the main surface areas. 12 inches. Taking large strokes smooth the joint compound over the tape applying more pressure to the side of the taping knife further away from the tape.Prior to applying the skim coat it is best to take your wide taping blade and lightly pass over the mudded surfaces. Apply a generous amount of joint compound and then run the Corner knife down the corner starting from the top. Again the rows should be staggered. Again, apply more pressure to the blade side that is further away from the corner so that you leave more mud nearer the outside corner. Also, make sure metal protection plates have been installed to studding where sheetrock screws or nails could inadvertently penetrate plumbing pipes or electrical wire. This will help to leave more mud over the tape. Gloves are also recommended to protect against sharp blades. Use the Drywall lift or Jacks to hold the sheets in place while screwing or nailing them to the ceiling. Note: the tape will still be visible. Make sure to completely clean off the taping knife, the mud easel and any other containers or instruments that have mud on them prior to finishing up for the day. It is this coat that should hide the tape. This valley typically represents the first 3 or 4 inches from the edge of the corner. Take long, even strokes. The Jacks (or Ts) should be of a length such that they are just an inch or two taller than the height of the ceiling and have a cross beam that is approximately 3' in width. Ensure that nailers (e. Usually there are a couple of 45o angle braces connecting the crossbar to the main stem of the Jack.Once the second coat has been applied let it sit overnight or until it is dry, prior to starting the final application of Joint compound.g. If your budget does not allow for this cost, Jacks (or Ts) can be made out of 2"x 4"s. I would suggest 1-2 containers per 500 square feet of drywall. Remember this is a skim coat so little mud is required. However, it is usually best done with two or more people as it requires significant lifting of heavy material. Fiberglass tape is quite inexpensive so I would suggest picking up 2 to 3 roles for most Do-it-Yourself drywall projects. The Gypsum in drywall can be irritating to the eyes, lungs and sinuses so wear safety goggles and masks to avoid breathing in the material. The purpose of this coat is to effectively fill in any lines or recessed areas. Apply a skim coat of joint compound over the surface of a seam using a 6" wide taping knife. Calculate the total square feet and divide by 32. Additional coats will eventually hide it.For the corners use the broad taping knife and add just enough mud such that you can flare out the mudded surface area to about 8-12 inches, taking care to filling in any lines or dimples.Drywall screws or ringed nails will also be required.For purposes of efficiency and strength it is best to apply the large sheets of drywall over the doors and window openings and cut out the excess later. To determine how much material to order, measure all of the surface area, starting with the ceilings and then the walls.
Taping and MuddingAgain start with the ceiling. Drywall does come in larger sheets, such as 4'x12', however for a Do-it-Yourself homeowner these larger sheets can become unwieldy and maybe even impossible to bring into the existing home. Drywall should be applied from the top down, with the sheets hung perpendicular to the floor joists or studs. This will reduce sanding later.The inside corners are usually the most tricky and require practice. Also, strips of corner bead will be required. Here you are simply applying a final skim coat to the already mudded areas.Corner bead should be nailed every 6-8 inches and penetrate the framing. Screws or nails should be applied every 8 to 12 inches on each stud. Frequently sheets of plastic are used for creating the vapor barrier.Once the seams are done, using the 6" wide taping knife, apply mud to all of the screw/nail dimples. The plastic is simply stapled to the framing, covering the insulation.Drywall ToolsPrior to starting drywall installation, you need to obtain the proper tools. If the seam is wide, apply a liberal amount of joint compound to fill it.Note: When applying the mud over the tape and screw/nail dimples, make sure all excess material and uneven patches are smoothed down with the blade. Shower/Bathtub areas, Concrete board should be used. Joint Compound typically comes ready-mixed in 5 gallon containers.If mudding and taping are to be performed then Taping knifes, a Corner knife, sand paper, a pole sander and a Mud easel or pan will be necessary.Installing DrywallStart with the ceiling as this will allow the sheets on the walls to help hold the sheets on the ceiling. When complete, the mud should cover an area that extends beyond the width of the tape by 2 to 3 inches. Corners involve a little artistry so again take your time.Applying the Final Coat of MudAfter the first coat has thoroughly dried, it is now time to apply the final coat of mud. Make sure the seam is centered under the tape. Make sure to completely clean off the taping knife, the mud easel and any other containers or instruments that have mud on them prior to finishing up for the day.Rows of drywall should be applied in a staggered pattern. I find it best to use a pole sander with an open screened sand paper material specifically designed for sanding sheetrock/drywall mud. The screws or nails should be installed such that they are slightly recessed and create a small dimple without breaking the paper. The concrete board is also referred to as Wonderboard or Durock. For the taping knifes you will need a 6" wide blade and a 12" wide blade. I would also recommend adding another 5-10% to this figure to account for inefficiencies. Typically I use 1.For bathroom areas where ceramic tile is to be applied, e.For the inside corners a Corner knife may come in handy.
It is this coat that requires the most artistry and the least amount of joint compound. Secondly, a vapor barrier should be applied over the insulation on the outside walls if un-faced insulation was installed.Applying the Second Coat of MudAfter the first coat has thoroughly dried, it is now time to apply the second coat of mud.After the ceiling has been completed it its time to move on to the walls. Screws are typically stronger and can be placed further apart, e.Again start with the ceiling seams and apply a small amount of joint compound using the broad taping knife.Once sanding is complete, vacuum up the dust and you are ready for priming and painting the walls and texturing the ceilings.Once the first coat has been applied let it sit overnight or until it is dry, prior to starting the second application of Joint compound. A skim coat is all that is initially required.Installing Corner beadOnce the drywall has been installed, corner bead should be applied to all outside edges.For bathrooms or other moist areas Greenboard should probably be used as this material is moisture resistance.SafetyDrywall installation is dirty, heavy work.g.Joint Compound and Fiberglass tape will also be required for Taping and Mudding. With this second coat, flare out the mud over the dimples such that the diameter of the mudded area is about 6-8 inches in diameter.Once the final coat has been applied let it rest overnight or until it is dry,SandingSanding is a very dusty and dirty mess so please uses goggles and a mask. The result should give you the number of 4'x 8' sheets of drywall required for the job. A Drywall Lift really comes in handy when hanging sheetrock/drywall on the ceilings. While the Joint compound is still wet, apply the fiberglass tape over the skim coat of Joint Compound. Once the tape has been installed, apply additional Joint Compound over the tape, again using the 6" wide taping knife. Mudding and Taping can also be performed by the homeowner, however these tasks require some practice and artistry.After the seams have all been completed, apply a second coat of mud over the screw/nail dimples. With this second coat, flare out the mud over the dimples such that the diameter of the mudded area is about 3-4 inches in diameter.Again, start with the ceiling.25" length screws or nails. This will remove any bumps or ridges.In addition to the Lift or Jacks, a drywall screw gun, hammer, T-square, carpenters knife, drywall saw and a keyhole saw are required. 2" x 4"s) are existent at each corner and header, that the framing is straight, and that the framed walls create smooth planes. This will create an interlocked pattern that creates a tighter and stronger ceiling/wall. The bottom piece China Customized Sintered Powder Metal Pulleys Company should sit about ½ inches from the sub-floor. The keyhole saw is used for cutting around electrical boxes.
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